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Kidepo Valley National Park

True African wilderness

Little did we know, before our journey to Kidepo, how much it will feel like home. Soon after arriving our plan to stay for a day faded, deciding all as one, we want to stay here longer...

Located within the Kaabong Disctrict of Karamojaland at the crossroads of Uganda, Kenya and South Sudan, the Kidepo allured us with its rugged, semi arid valleys, vast landscapes and wildlife at its purest. A True African Wilderness, as Ugandan would say! The interplay of savanna cradled by mountains creates a sense of being in a timeless place, protected from the pressures of the outside world.

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Before entering the park, roads take you past villages where people of northern Uganda and the Karamoja in particular still live in the most traditional of settings. Respect for the needs of the communities and conservation priorities is key for the park and although living around the park involves its own challenges, it sets the ground for more sustainable living opportunities. We took the Moroto > Kotido > Kaabong road entering the park via Apoka gate.

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After being greeted at the gate with smiles and warm welcome, it’s the scenery that takes you by surprise. Steep, volcanic mountains ring the park, presided over by Mount Morungule at 2,750metres, home of IK tribe, and chain of volcanic ‘extrusions’ that split the two main valleys of the park - the Kidepo and Narus Valleys.

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With the sun getting below the horizon and our hearts beating fast from the beauty all around, we happily reach the Kidepo information centre and as if someone would try to give us a sign – we are introduced to Godson. Ranger with over 20 years experience, Godson has worked in Kidepo for over two years and is the most genuine guide we met whilst travelling. Over the following days he will be our eyes and ears, guiding us through the Kidepo trails, introducing us to the species we have never seen before and sharing the most memorable wildlife stories at the campfire.

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“Welcome to the Kidepo Valley National Park” he would say with big smile and off we go to settle down at the Nagusokopire campsite, located in the Narrus Valley.

Nothing beats camping under the sky full of stars surrounded by wildlife lullabies.

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The Narus Valley is a long grass savanna and holds the only significant year round water. Despite the fact that it represents 1 third of the park’s land, most of the wildlife concentrates here during the dry season, which we experienced to its fullest. The land in Kidepo is healthy, it is the most intact savanna ecosystem left in the country, and the limited human impact on the landscape means that very few species have been transported here to take root and degrade the habitat.

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Elephant poo tastes so good to some creatures...

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Another tree added to our top favourite list - Sausage tree

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From only three beauties in the late 1990s that were brought from Kenya, the herd of Rothchild's Giraffe in Kidepo now stands at around 40. As one of the nine different kinds of giraffes in the world you can recognize them by white stockings, their legs are completely white with no markings from the hoof up to their knees. They are now extinct in Sudan and live only in the Rift Valley area of Kenya and Uganda, were around 800 of them remain today.

Seeing them all running over the vast fields of Narus Valley gives goosebumps just by remembering the lucky coincidence.

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But surely one of the most remarkable sights is Kidepo’s vast buffalo herds, with up to thousands of these bovine beasts in a single congregation. When sharing trails they greet you with curious look trying to identify what kind of animal are you.

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Meet the retired generals” Godson says pointing towards two buffalos enjoying a bath of mud. It turns out those separating from the herd rangers would call retired generals due to their independent living and rebellious behavior.

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All those times practicing sun salutation back in London came in handy when greeting each day at the sunrise.

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Godson meditating his own solute

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On the other side of the Kidepo River bed is Kidepo Valley, a contrast to Narus Valley with its short-grass savanna and spectacular views across the border into South Sudan. At the time we were crossing the river it was dry and lively with Baboons enjoying their playground in the midday heat, although Godson would know to say that only two weeks ago in the rain season it was full with water.

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It takes a good hour or so to reach the Kidepo Valley, but its worth the journey to experience the landscape and step onto the no man's land between Uganda and South Sudan.

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The birds are abundant year-around and just before visiting the hot springs we came across the Weaver birds. The males are the main weavers, leaving the females with the responsibility of selecting their breeding-partner. They do this based on the location, design and relative comfort of the nest which ensures the good genetic quality for the father of her offspring alongside a safe home for her eggs. This is probably one of the liveliest natural construction sites you can experience, full with action, love and songs.

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Godson giving us advice on nest wavering

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Kanangorok hot springs has a temperature of about 60°C and is mainly covered by rocks and vegetation due to years of neglect.

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After spending three days in Kidepo we left feeling happier, more harmony with nature and fully charged from the beauty wildlife offers here on every grass stem. Another Big Sunny goes to the Kidepo team for making us feel like home. We will be back!

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