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Between the peaks of Mt Moroto

We arrived in the town of Moroto well past the sun had set. Tired after a long day on a bumpy road from Jinja, we went to bed with little idea about what the new day will bring. It was only in the morning when the sun lit up the green cliffs of Mt Moroto when we saw the beauty and challenge of the day ahead of us...

"Apana a Mount Moroto!" is one of the first phrases we learn from our enthusiastic Karamojong guides as they greeted us in the morning sun. In translation from Karamojong language it means 'Let's go to Mount Moroto!" We wake up early before the full midday glare, gather our team of three muzungu girls and three Karamojongs and off we go...

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Mount Moroto is an old volcano and one of a chain along Uganda's international border with Kenya. It begins with Mount Elgon in the South and includes Mount Kadam and Mount Morungole in the North. The two peaks of Sogolomon and Sokdek rise 3082 meters above the sea level. Our plan was to spend the night on the mountain crossing between them. After a long winter in the city we were so thirsty for being in nature.... It is the end of rainy season with mountain slopes coloured in all shades of green. Our guides say that we are lucky with the weather as most days the peaks are covered in clouds providing torrential rains complimented by thunder and lightning. That would have made for some camping...

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For generations nature, people and cattle have lived here in mutually balanced relationship, which is now threatened by the pressure of changing climate. The pastoral communities benefit from the green pastures on the slopes of Mt Moroto providing the precious water from its streams. We learn that for locals it is a cultural taboo on cutting live trees if dead ones can be found. And the nature, when left alone, makes wonders...

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.As we continued on our trail we noticed the first conical mud huts built in the middle of meadows. These are homes of Tepeths, one of the Uganda’s original tribes. Today Tepeths are integrated in Karamojong communities who settled near the mountain around 1600. Yet they are most closely linked to Kadam people with whom they share original So language. These days younger generations speak mostly the Pökoot or Karamojong while So language has become endangered and spoken mostly by elders.

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Many huts are built on top of the rocks where the views overlooking Moroto town become ever more spectacular. The name 'Moroto' in local language stands for 'pythons neck' as they were commonly found in these valleys not long ago.

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As the midday approached the traffic along the trail got busier. We crossed paths with mostly Tepeth women who were going to the town to sell firewood. They make this journey up and down the steep slopes to trade goods for often very low price as they must get back on the mountain before the night falls. The women we met put us to shame with their physicality, especially as they carry the kindest smiles with heavy load on their heads and shoulders.

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It was the end of planting season and everyone is busy working. The only ones around us for most of the climb where the kids. We could often hear them laughing while running down the valley and trying to catch us somewhere along on the trail. They made us feel welcome and less intrusive in this serene and calm valley.

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At one point we had to stop and make a detour due to a fallen tree on the trail. It added around an hour to the progress we made as we had to go down and up again. That didn't really dampen the spirits in the group as we found a nice stream to cool off. Here we also met the Tepeth shepard Lokiru who decided to climb with us and shared some good shortcuts. We never got detoured again. His name translates from So language as a "boy born at the time of rains"

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The views were quickly becoming even more breathtaking. By now the midday sun was in full glare and the climb was getting more steep. We started to take more breaks only if just to admire the rising beauty behind us.

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Once the ancient trees were left behind at the valley, we started to observe the variety of vegetation and how it changed further up we climbed. Flowers and butterflies created splashes of colour in the green surroundings. We made a happy discovery of Aloe Vera and contemplated to use it for soothing our sunburned skin. Meanwhile Paul discovered a set of teeth, which judging by the shape once belonged to 'carnivore'. He just wasn't sure which one...

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Smile like you are almost there...

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The view from 'Nangataret', which translates as 'the place of winning'. We share the same sense of relief once this spot was finally reached.

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We set our camp next to a clearly busy route up and down the slopes as the way to trade with neighbours or visit family is to go over to the other side of the mountain. We spent our evening watching how people of all ages passed by carrying sacks, branches and water. What we climbed with good effort in one day is what they do every day...

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Key figures of Karamojong culture greeted us on top of the mountain and seem to love the long grass after the rains. We had to admit that when it comes to cattle they were one of the nicest one we've seen. However as much as we enjoyed watching them graze in the evening light, we had to build our tents before the sunset to find cow-pie free area.

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The best mountain pasta made with true team effort. This was our first real meal of the day as we only climbed on frequent sips of water, glucose and monkey nuts, which do miracles to energy levels.

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The moon is wide awake when we get up to greet the sun next morning.

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While we were appreciating the rise of the new day, the Tepeth shepard and his son we met last night approached to say 'good-morning'. With not only feet but mind rested, we were keen to go beyond polite 'hello' and learn more about the life in these mountains. With Paul's help who understands Tepeth language, we quickly turned this into an interesting conversation about the gods who inhibit these valleys. We talked about the rituals where elders gather to worship the main god 'Awuenit' or 'Aparapot' and discussed the ceremonies that promised to keep Tepeths and their cattle disease free and bring good harvests. Turns out not all good conversations take place around the campfire.

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Local sandals made from car tires. Not only do they look comfortable and well-suited for daily rock climbing but protect Tepeth feet from lightening.

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Last look at the Karamoja plai nes from 'Nangataret'. We thanked the valley gods for the beautiful welcome and started our decent thinking how we climbed up here for the love of wild places but ended up leaving with so much more...

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Alakara-noooi Kara-tunga boys Theo, Paul, Pete, Shongz. We are inspired by your passion for sustainability and responsibility in preserving the unique cultural heritage of Karamoja region. If you plan to visit Karamoja these are your new Karamojong friends and guides www.kara-tunga.com

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